Nomos: A New Rule of Taste in the Heart of Ancient Rome

In the heart of the historic Regola district, a new culinary journey blends Italian heritage with international inspirations on a minimalist stage designed by HENRYTIMI.

In the labyrinthine heart of Rome, where history is layered like sediment, lies the Regola district. Its very name whispers of the Tiber River, derived from “arenula,” the soft sand the river has deposited on its banks for millennia. This deep connection to the water shaped its identity; in the Middle Ages, these cobblestoned streets were alive with the work of millers, dyers, and tanners.

It was here, among the butchers who worked near the river, that one of Rome’s most iconic dishes, coda alla vaccinara, was likely born—a testament to a culinary tradition forged from grit and ingenuity. Long before that, in antiquity, this ground was part of the Campus Martius, home to the Trigarium, an arena where charioteers trained with three-horse chariots for competitions in the nearby Stadium of Domitian.

It is on this profoundly historic soil, so rich with stories of craft, competition, and Roman life, that a new and compelling dialogue between the city’s eternal past and a global future is taking shape. This conversation is happening within the walls of a converted 18th-century Franciscan monastery, now the Nomos Hotel. It is spoken most eloquently through the language of food at its two new destinations: Nomos Ante, a fine dining restaurant, and the adjoining Nomos Bar. Together, they represent a singular vision, a new “rule” of taste conceived by Executive Chef Giulio Zoli to create an experience that is at once deeply rooted and boundless in its horizons.

The Shape of Silence

Stepping into Nomos Ante is an exercise in tranquility. The sensory overload of Rome’s streets dissolves into a contemplative calm, a space of poetic minimalism shaped by the singular vision of artisan-artist HENRYTIMI. Known for his philosophy of creation through subtraction, HENRYTIMI has transformed the ground floor of the historic monastery into a sanctuary of essential forms and natural materials.

The dominant material is travertine, the stone of ancient Rome, used here not as a relic but as a living element that bridges millennia. It evokes the grandeur of the city’s ruins while feeling entirely contemporary. The space is arranged across three dining rooms, one of which is private, hosting just nine tables and twenty-eight seats in total. This intentional intimacy creates a refuge suspended in time.

Massive wooden tables, solid and grounding, tell stories of strength, while totemic structures rise from the floor, concealing functional elements within their primordial forms. The color palette is a soothing symphony of clay and warm earth tones, wrapping the environment in an aura that encourages introspection. It is a silent horizon, a meticulously crafted void designed not to impose, but to welcome and amplify the sensory journey that is about to unfold on the plate.

Nomos as regeneration,” explains HENRYTIMI, whose work often explores the bond between humanity and primordial matter. The design here is intended to foster “an unprecedented bond between people and primordial sensations,” creating a new ritual of hospitality born from Rome’s eternal beauty.

Roman Roots, Global Horizons

This minimalist stage is where the culinary vision of Chef Giulio Zoli comes to life. At just 35, the Roman-born chef possesses a resume that traces a map across the world’s most influential gastronomic kitchens. After honing his skills in Italy, he embarked on a journey, working under the guidance of modern masters like Alex Atala in Brazil, whose work with indigenous ingredients redefined a national cuisine; Yannick Alléno in France, a globally recognized master of sauce extraction and technique; and Anthony Genovese at Rome’s two-Michelin-starred Il Pagliaccio, where he spent six years as sous chef.

This wealth of experience has culminated in a culinary philosophy Zoli describes as free, open, yet firmly rooted. “My idea of cuisine is based on balance,” the chef explains. “Harmonizing contrasts and weaving Italian memories with distant influences is at the heart of my creative process.”

The true signature of his cooking, its narrative thread, is the sauce. Refined through his French experiences but reimagined in a lighter, more contemporary key, his sauces are not mere accompaniments but architectures of flavor. They bind ingredients, but more importantly, they weave connections between cultures and territories, transforming each dish into a bridge between local memory and distant geographies. For Zoli, Nomos is a turning point. “It’s the first project where I take on the responsibility of executive chef,” he says. “My ambition is to create a gastronomic language that is free, comprehensible, and accessible—capable of surprising, with deep roots and an open outlook on the world.”

A Culinary Triptych

The chef’s philosophy translates into dishes of quiet complexity and profound flavor. The Spaghetti Citrus is a perfect emblem of his approach. A foundational Italian comfort food is infused with smoked provola and a butter made with lapsang souchong tea, introducing a delicate smokiness. This is balanced by the bitter counterpoint of gentian and a dazzling crescendo of citrus—lemon leaf oil, Buddha’s hand, limequat, and finger lime—all anchored by a dusting of Mediterranean caper powder. It is a dish that is at once familiar and thrillingly new.

The Rabbit Tortellino pays homage to Italy’s tradition of filled pasta while venturing into Middle Eastern markets. The delicate rabbit filling is paired with the creaminess of chickpea milk and the bright, tangy notes of fermented apricot and sumac. Cooked in an aromatic rabbit jus with mint, fresh fennel, and caraway, it is a masterful dialogue between Italian pastoral traditions and the spice-laden journeys of another world.

Perhaps the most complex expression is the Quail. The main bird is barbecued and served with a raw pink prawn, creating a surprising harmony of land and sea. Roasted pepper, pickled Borretana onion, a rich tuna sauce, and a poached quail egg add layers of flavor, texture, and temperature. Alongside, a Thai-style samosa filled with the quail leg and enriched with XO sauce offers a burst of Asian influence. The entire plate is brought together by a resonant sauce made from quail and prawn heads, a testament to Zoli’s focus on deep, foundational flavors.

A Philosophy in Three Acts

The name “Nomos,” from the ancient Greek for law, order, and harmony, serves as the guiding principle for the dining experience. This philosophy is translated into a three-stage journey, with tasting menus conceived as a progression from origin to full realization.

The path begins with ARCHÉ – The Principle, a menu that acts as the seed and first introduction to the Nomos universe. It then moves to MÉTRON – The Measure, the central stage which celebrates the balance between technique and inspiration, guided by harmony and proportion. The journey culminates in TÉLOS – The Fulfillment, a complete synthesis of flavors, techniques, and emotions that expresses the Nomos philosophy in its entirety.

The Art of Connection

The dining room at Nomos Ante operates with a quiet, confident grace under the direction of Antonio Cannoniero, a young and accomplished restaurant manager and sommelier. With over a decade of experience in Michelin-starred establishments across Europe, from Il Pagliaccio in Rome to Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud in Dublin, Cannoniero brings a modern vision of hospitality.

“Our approach stems from the desire to privilege relationships: less performance, more authenticity,” he explains. The service is built on discreet attention and the sensitivity to anticipate desires, creating a dynamic rhythm where the front of house and kitchen are in constant, seamless dialogue.

His curated wine selection of 200 labels reflects the restaurant’s philosophy. Sixty percent is dedicated to Italian excellence, with a focus on native grapes and emerging regions, while the remainder explores Europe and the world, with a special emphasis on Burgundy. Alongside iconic producers, the list champions small, artisanal winemakers. The pairings are designed not just for balance but to create bold, delightful contrasts, an approach that extends to a thoughtful selection of alcohol-free pairings crafted to harmonize with the cuisine.

The Courtyard Retreat

Adjacent to the main restaurant, nestled in an intimate courtyard, the Nomos Bar continues the ethos of material minimalism. Twenty-four seats gather around nine tables whose geometric bases rise from the floor like refined relics, creating a space that is both complementary to and independent of the main dining room. Here, Zoli’s cuisine finds a new language of intentional simplicity.

The all-day concept begins with the “Good Morning Nomos” à la carte breakfast, where artisanal pastries and fresh juices sit alongside international plates like pancakes and a reinterpretation of the English breakfast. A brilliant cross-cultural gesture appears in the form of a tagliolino with tomato and basil, which recalls the Asian tradition of breakfast ramen through a distinctly Italian lens. As the day unfolds, the bar transitions into a sophisticated setting for fine wines, signature spirits, and classic cocktails, all reflecting the meticulous quality of the Nomos project.

In the end, Nomos Ante and Nomos Bar are a statement of intent—a thoughtful, beautifully executed vision of contemporary Roman hospitality that respects its deep history while fearlessly looking to the horizon.

Photo credit: Dario Borruto

Nomos Hotel

HENRYTIMI

NOMOS BAR ANTE


Via San Paolo alla Regola, 3
 Rome


+39 06 84102388


info@nomoshotel.com

Nomos: A New Rule of Taste in the Heart of Ancient Rome

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