The Milan restaurant Al Baretto Sant’Ambrogio reimagines Italian classicism with a modern sensibility, blending refinement and warmth in a vibrant setting defined by its unique energy and rhythm.
There is a specific frequency that vibrates through the Tortona district—a zone where the industrial skeletons of the past are dressed in the couture of the present. Here, at Via Privata Bobbio 1, a definitive new chapter in Milan’s gastronomic story has been written.
This opening marks the fifth destination for La Gioia Collection, the hospitality group founded by visionary entrepreneur Redi Shijaku. With a turnover now exceeding 20 million euros, a workforce of 200, and a portfolio including La Gioia San Marco, Serafina, and Afrodite, the group has solidified its status as a pillar of the city’s social fabric. Al Baretto Sant’Ambrogio represents a maturation for the brand—a space where the exuberance of expansion meets the stillness of refined elegance.
“We don’t create restaurants. We create places. Places that make you dream and relive the Italian dream,” states Redi Shijaku, Founder and CEO of La Gioia Collection.
The Architecture of Memory
Occupying the footprint of the historic Il Tirolo shop, the environment has been entirely reimagined by La Gioia Collection’s internal architecture and design studio. This choice to keep design “in-house” ensures a seamless dialogue between Shijaku’s vision and the physical reality.
The aesthetic vernacular here is one of warmth and kinetic energy. The design bypasses sterile minimalism, opting for tactile richness. The protagonist of the main hall is undoubtedly the Timeless Bar. Modeled with the curvature and material integrity of a yacht’s bridge, it serves as the room’s command center. Polished woods and brass accents nod to nautical aesthetics, creating a stage for the aperitivo ritual where glassware sparkles against generous mirrors.
Beyond the energy of the main bar and the open kitchen—where a brigade of 15 to 20 chefs orchestrates the service—lies a second, more intimate room. Here, the volume turns down and the palette softens. A reserved second bar anchors a private area designed for discreet socialization. The lighting is sartorial, shifting imperceptibly as afternoon bleeds into evening, while the soundscape adapts fluidly to the rhythm of the crowd. Here, the ‘New Classic‘ ethos becomes tangible. From the upholstered seating to the custom sconces, every element is the result of direct craftsmanship: forms devoid of excess, refined details, and materials that echo the Italian tradition of taste and proportion.
The Human Factor
At Al Baretto Sant’Ambrogio, the dining room is defined by personality, animated by a team chosen for their distinct charisma to elevate the human connection defining true hospitality. Leading the floor is manager Marco Sacco, ensuring the rhythm of service matches the kitchen’s sophistication. Adding a layer of grace is Endi Bahaj, a former dancer at La Scala, while Telemaco Calandrino complements the team with deep expertise in Italian viticulture.
A Culinary Dialogue: Land Meets Sea
Building on the heritage of Al Baretto San Marco—a historic destination revered for its seafood—Sant’Ambrogio expands the narrative into a comprehensive novel about the Italian table. It distinguishes itself within the Milan restaurant scene by fostering a robust dialogue between land and sea.
The journey begins with a raw bar rivaling the city’s best. The Bluefin Tuna with Black Truffle, Plum, and Shallot balances earthiness with oceanic salinity, while the Ceviche of Black Grouper and Red Prawn with Carrot and Yellow Chili introduce contemporary acidity. For traditionalists, the Vitello Tonnato is a study in reassuring precision. A standout innovation is the Beetroot (Red and White) with Walnut Cream and Sweet Mustard, a dish transforming a humble root vegetable into a complex interplay of textures.
The kitchen’s technical prowess shines in the Primi. The Risotto alla Milanese with Carabineros and Saffron Pistils is a chromatic triumph, connecting the city’s identity with the deep sea. Equally compelling are the Agnolotti del Plin with Three Roasts, a nod to northern traditions.
Moving to the mains, the restaurant flexes its muscles with a charcoal grill. The Tagliata with Green Pepper (Ribeye of Pezzata Rossa) is a timeless bistro staple, while the Ombrina with Escarole and Jerusalem Artichoke reveals savory depth. The menu is ambitious, featuring everything from Suckling Lamb to Duck Breast.
A Tribute to Milan
The name Sant’Ambrogio is a deliberate homage to Milan’s patron saint, a symbol of resilience and industrious soul. It anchors the restaurant spiritually within the Milanese consciousness.
“We don’t chase trends. We chase authentic beauty,” Shijaku reflects. “With the sensitivity to grasp inspiration from everyday life, we travel, we research, we dream, and then we create. This is not a replica. It is a new chapter: an elegant, personal, and decisive reinterpretation of Milanese hospitality.”