Ortigia is not merely a district; it is the beating heart and the most ancient soul of Siracusa.
Emerging from the eastern coast of Sicily, this island-citadel is a baroque casbah carved from honey-colored stone, a place so unique it is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site. Its history is a dense, stratified tale that has seen Greeks, Romans, Byzantines, Arabs, and the Spanish leave an indelible mark. Today, losing oneself in its alleys is a vibrant experience, a journey through millennia of culture.
Crossing the Umbertide bridge that connects it to the mainland, you immediately encounter the imposing ruins of the Temple of Apollo. It is a powerful vision that marks the entrance into history. This temple, the oldest example of Doric architecture in Sicily, dates back to the 6th century B.C. and marks the epochal transition from wooden to stone construction. An inscription on a step still reveals its dedication: “Kleomenes, son of Knidieidas, made this for Apollo, and raised the colonnades, which are beautiful works.” Over the centuries, its sacredness has been reinterpreted, first becoming an early Christian church, then an Arab mosque, and finally a Norman basilica—a silent witness to the flow of civilizations.
Ortigia’s Greek heritage, however, is not only carved in temple stone but is also celebrated in the genius of its most illustrious sons. Just a few steps away, at Via Mirabella 31, one can visit the Archimedes and Leonardo Museum. Inside a prestigious 18th-century palace, the functioning machines of Leonardo da Vinci engage in an ideal dialogue with the inventions of the great Syracusan mathematician, Archimedes. It is a unique encounter between two giants of thought, a bridge between the science of Magna Graecia and the ingenuity of the Renaissance, which can be explored by admiring catapults and levers alongside Leonardo’s anatomical studies.
A short walk from the temple, daily life explodes in the clamor and colors of the Ortigia Market. Every morning from Monday to Saturday, Via de Benedictis transforms into an open-air theater. The stalls are a sensory journey: from Eastern spices to freshly caught fish, from local cheeses to sun-kissed fruits.
Amidst the seagulls and the scent of the sea, you can sit at the tables of Salumeria Burgio, scattered here and there, to eat a sandwich with fresh canestrato cheese from the Sicani mountains or perhaps a slice of tuma persa with ‘nduja from Spilinga. For a sweet break, a must-visit is the historic Pasticceria Marciante, the perfect place for the classic almond granita with brioche, but also to discover sweets that are true tales of the city: the Occhi di S. Lucia (Eyes of St. Lucy), which celebrate the patron saint protector of sight, as well as the traditional Cuccìa prepared in December, and Eureka, a tribute to the genius of Archimedes.
Leaving the market behind, you enter the island’s baroque heart, arriving in one of Italy’s most beautiful squares: Piazza Duomo. Here, the elegance of the white noble palaces creates a theatrical backdrop. On the left stands the Palazzo Beneventano del Bosco, a superb example of baroque architecture with its wrought-iron balconies, while opposite rises the Palazzo del Vermexio, the current City Hall, which blends Renaissance and baroque styles.
But the gaze is inevitably captured by the sumptuous facade of the Duomo of Siracusa, which hides a millennial secret: inside, majestic and intact, survives the Temple of Athena. Erected in 480 B.C. to celebrate a victory over the Carthaginians, its powerful Doric columns are still visible today, both outside and in. The history of this place is an incredible palimpsest: a Greek temple, a Byzantine basilica with its walls built between the columns, a mosque during the Arab domination, and finally a Norman cathedral. To cross its threshold is to traverse centuries of faith and art, finding yourself in a sober and solemn interior that houses, among its works, a Saint Zosimo attributed to Antonello da Messina.
In the same square, the Church of Santa Lucia alla Badia completes the picture with its refined baroque facade. Until recently, it housed Caravaggio’s Burial of Saint Lucy, a masterpiece that filled the eyes with a deep emotion, now returned to its original location.
Venturing into the labyrinth of alleys, you walk along Via della Maestranza, now restored to its former splendor. Here you can discover precious shops like Ceramikale, which displays the iconic “Moorish heads” in Caltagirone ceramic by Alessandro Alota, or the independent bookstore Casa del Libro Rosario Mascali. The air fills with the scents of citrus and spices emanating from boutiques like Ortigia Sicilia, which capture the island’s essence in refined soaps and fragrances.
This wealth of stimuli is inevitably reflected in the cuisine. For if Ortigia is a mosaic of styles and cultures, the same is true of its table. The soul of ‘U’ Scogghiu’, as the island is called in dialect, can be tasted in the inns and bistros, where recipes draw from all over the Mediterranean. Thus, you discover ancient flavors like pasta fritta alla siracusana (Syracusan fried pasta) or with salsa moresca (Moorish sauce), pupetti i mucco (newborn fish patties), or matalotta, a thick fish soup, alongside the classic caponata, found here in countless variations.
The gastronomic exploration thus winds through a labyrinth of offerings, each with its own identity. You might stumble upon the genuine and familiar atmosphere of La Tavernette di Piero, where young Angela manages the dining room and her uncle Piero in the kitchen remains faithful to traditional dishes. A little further on, in the Spiriti quarter, you can discover the “whispered cuisine” of Macallé Sicilian Bistrot, where chef Maurizio lightens classic recipes into more creative creations, like busiate with octopus ragù.
A similar approach, but with a more narrative scope, is found at Don Camillo restaurant, a place cherished even by the sea legend Enzo Maiorca. It is here that chef and owner Giovanni Guarnieri transforms cuisine into storytelling, where every ingredient has its own history and every dish becomes a narration of the territory, perceptible in creations like the cream of Noto almonds with shrimp or the “siren’s spaghetti” with shrimp and sea urchin. Finally, in the Giudecca quarter, with a splendid sea view, chef Igor at Alevante Restaurant pushes the experience towards a bold fusion cuisine, uniting Sicily with Africa and the Arab world in dishes like caponata with diced swordfish.
The cultural journey continues towards the Regional Gallery of Palazzo Bellomo, a fascinating building that merges Swabian and Gothic architecture. Inside, its most precious treasure is the Annunciation by Antonello da Messina, a work of dazzling beauty. Not far away, almost hidden, is the Church of San Giovannello with its 15th-century facade and the evocative charm of an open-air interior, which gives it a unique atmosphere.
Right in the heart of the Giudecca, the Jewish quarter, lies one of the most moving experiences: the Jewish Ritual Bath (Mikveh). Descending 18 meters underground, you discover one of the oldest mikvehs in Europe, dating back to the 6th century A.D. The pools carved into the rock and fed by spring water tell stories of a community and a ritual of purification and spiritual renewal that connects the visitor to an ancient and profound soul of Ortigia.
The walk continues towards the island’s farthest point, following the call of the sea. Thus, you arrive at the Fountain of Arethusa, a pool of fresh water just meters from the salty waves. Its existence is linked to the myth of the nymph Arethusa, transformed by Diana into a spring to escape the god Alpheus, who reached her by becoming an underground river. Today, among the lush papyrus plants that grow there, the legend still seems to vibrate. And as the path approaches the fortress, you can find the “gentle cuisine” of Locanda Maniace, where revisited proposals, like fried baby octopus with honey, reflect the rare courtesy of its owner, Mirko.
Finally, dominating the horizon, stands Maniace Castle. Built by Frederick II of Swabia between 1232 and 1240, it is an imposing yet stately fortress, guarding the harbor. Its name is a tribute to the Byzantine general George Maniakes, who reconquered the city from the Arabs. With its robust square plan, cylindrical towers, and Gothic portal, the castle is the symbol of Siracusa’s strength. Walking on its ramparts, with your gaze lost in the blue of the Ionian Sea, is the perfect way to conclude a journey in this corner of the world where every stone tells a story.
Cover Photo: Agostino Artnoir Sella